Discovering the Western Ghats: India's Rain God and Biodiversity Treasure Trove

Vew from a tea plantation in Western Ghats

The Western Ghats: Rich in Species Diversity

The Western Ghats mountain stretch begins in the heartland of India, south of the Tapti river, along the border of the states, Gujarat and Rajasthan. Its undulating heights meander through five more states including Kerala, Maharashtra, Goa, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka. Karnataka hosts 60% of this gigantic and evergreen mountain behemoth. India is one of the 12 major biodiversity-intense regions of the world; the wondrous richness of its flora and fauna is reflected flamboyantly in the Western Ghats, as nowhere else; these mountains are home to 325 globally threatened species.

The Western Ghats provide water to a river network that keeps 40% of India fertile and inhabitable. Its forests and hill ranges cover an area of 1,80,000 square kilometres with an average elevation of 1200 square kilometres and are among the 36 identified biodiversity hot spots of the world and placed among the most diverse 10 mega hotspots.

The species diversity can be summarized as below:

• 7402 species of flowering plants

• 1814 species of non-flowering plants

• 140 species of mammals

• 510 species of birds

• 180 species of amphibians

• 6000 species of insects

• 290 species of freshwater fish

The Rain God

The Western Ghats house 50% of the total amphibian species of the whole of India. Thirty percent of the world population of Asian elephants resides in this forest stretch. This wilderness is also home to 17% of the tigers that the world is left with.

Geographically, this mountain range came about 150 million years ago when the continents drifted away from Gondwana land, the supercontinent of the pre-Jurassic era. The Western Ghats were there, well-formed and intact, when the Indian subcontinent broke away from Antarctica 9-10 million years ago and drifted northward, finally colliding with the Asian tectonic shelf, the collision creating the Himalayas. This is why the geography of the Western Ghats is set like that of the cold and adamant rocks we find unbreakable, and this is why there are fewer landslides and natural river course changes in the Western Ghats compared to the Himalayas. These mountain ranges offer a safer haven for human habitation. An ancient civilization could be built and thrive for centuries on the high ranges and valleys of these mountains.

There are only two mountain passes in this entire mountain range, and they serve as the two doors that help one cross the otherwise formidable fort of this majestic geological kingdom. One is the Goa Pass, which separates the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The second is the Palghat Pass, which is situated on the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border. Three distinct hill ranges, the Sahyadris, Nilgiris, and Anamalai Hills constitute the entirety of the length and breadth of the Western Ghats.

The Indian subcontinent owes its monsoon rains to the Western Ghats mountain ranges as they intercept the monsoon winds and bring rain to the plateau and the coasts of South India. The evergreen forests of its ecosystem create a cool atmosphere above them for the rain clouds to condense and pour. During monsoons, these forests receive up to 9000 mm of rain and, on average, 3000 mm of rain year-round.

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The Rivers and Shola Forests

Thamiraparni, Krishna, Godavari, and Kaveri are the four rivers that originate in these mountains and flow east to merge with the ocean after reaching the Bay of Bengal. Kabini, Periyar, Bharathapuzha, Pennar, and Bhavani are a few of the 40 west-flowing rivers that start their journey from the Western Ghats and reach their destination in different Arabian Sea estuaries.

The lower ranges of the Western Ghats have a tropical climate that is humid and hot. When the elevation reaches up to 1500 meters from sea level, the climate changes to a temperate one. In these regions, the temperature throughout the year remains at 15 degrees Celsius, on average. The highest peaks have freezing climatic conditions.

The forests in the Western Ghats are classified into four types. This classification is based on the tropical-subtropical-moist-broadleaf eco-regions category of scientifically classifying forest ecosystems. The forests that thrive in the western parts of the mountain ranges are named north-western Ghats moist deciduous forests. The southwestern part hosts two types of forests: the southwestern Ghats moist deciduous forests and the southwestern Ghats montane rainforests. The deciduous forests are comparatively dry forest areas, while rainforests are evergreen wet forests. There is a region of the forest in Wayanad, in Kerala, where one can see the characteristics of both types. The southwestern Ghats montane rainforests are the most biodiversity-rich region of the entire Indian subcontinent. This region hosts 80% of the flowering plants of the Western Ghats. Another unique feature of the Western Ghats is the shola forests. These are vast stretches of montane grasslands with small pockets of evergreen forest growing within them.

To observe the wild ancestors of many domesticated food plants, simply take a walk through these woods and be observant. You will have the opportunity to see them.

• Wild Rice

• Wild Barley

• Wild Mango

• Wild Banana

• Wild Jack Fruit Tree

• Wild Pepper

• Wild Cinnamon

• Wild cardamom

• Wild Nutmeg

Some Special Species of the Western Ghats

Lion-tailed Macaque

Lion-tailed Macaques, native to the Western Ghats, are characterized by thick black fur and a distinctive white silvery mane. Their tails resemble those of lions, which is why they are named Lion-tailed Macaques (Macaca silenus). They are also known as Wanderoo. The fragmentation of forest lands in the Western Ghats, due to deforestation and human activities like plantation cropping, poses a significant threat to this species. These monkeys are currently classified as 'Endangered' on the IUCN Red List. Their primary diet consists of specific fruits found only in the Western Ghats, making it difficult for them to survive outside their natural habitat.

Wight’s Sago Palm

Wight’s Sago Palm (Arenga wightii) is a palm whose various parts are utilized by the tribes of the Western Ghats. The tree's sap is transformed into palm wine, and its starch is prepared as food. This species is at risk of extinction and is classified as vulnerable on the IUCN list.

Queen Sago

Queen Sago (Cycas circinalis) is another palm species whose nut kernel is boiled and eaten by tribal communities. It's crucial to note that the kernel is only safe to consume after its toxic component is eliminated through repeated soaking, boiling and stock removal, or by sun-drying or using a traditional oven for several months. During the monsoon season, when other food sources are limited, this tree serves as a reliable nutritional resource for those living in or near forests. Additionally, the tree is significant as it serves as a host for the Cupid Butterfly.

Nilgiri Tahr

The Nilgiri Tahr, a goat species native to the Nilgiri Hills in the Western Ghats, faces threats from habitat loss and poaching. These animals inhabit the montane grasslands of the southwestern Ghats montane rainforest region, a unique micro-ecosystem. To safeguard them, efforts are underway to designate a significant portion of this area as a national park.

A Unique Ecosystem

The pristine forests of the Western Ghats were first cut down by British colonizers to obtain wood, gather sandalwood, and establish tea plantations. This widespread deforestation began in the 1860s and persisted until the 1950s. Even after India's independence in 1947, the pace of tree felling did not slow down, as there was already a flourishing industry exploiting various natural resources. It was due to the relentless efforts of British environmentalist Norman Myers that the Western Ghats were eventually declared an ecologically fragile biodiversity hotspot in 1988, significantly curbing the reckless exploitation of this untouched forest.

Home to unique species such as the lion-tailed macaque, Nilgiri Tahr, Nilgiri Langur, and the great Indian hornbill, and a sanctuary for vividly colored frogs, flying lizards, and stunning orchids, these mountain ranges are a paradise for nature enthusiasts and explorers.